Khu Khu Eatery — EAT IT AUCKLAND

I cannot recommend Khu Khu Eatery more highly. The brainchild of Michael Khuwattanasenee, this new kid on the Ponsonby Road block fills two niches in the Auckland restaurantscape we’ve sorely been lacking: a wholly vegan restaurant, and good, spicy Thai food.

I visited Khu Khu on a midweek evening where the sun setting on Ponsonby Road cast such heat I was sweating like I was in the middle of a Bangkok summer. I had convened with my boyfriend Mitch and his parents, who were visiting for the second time in just under a week (!). They had thoroughly enjoyed their first meal and were keen to share in their joy. Khu Khu Eatery is a smallish restaurant, and I would think they’ll need to expand in the future as their popularity increases (and oh how it will). Their concept is bold and thoughtful: from the gorgeous tableware and eye-catching wall mural, to the concise and completely plant-based menu, the restaurant has paid attention to detail in a way many a neighbourhood Thai restaurant has not. Despite being open since early December last year, the restaurant is still a work-in-progress, which is both a blessing and a curse. In just the same week Michael had changed his supplier of organic tofu, unhappy with the overly soft tofu that use to grace their dishes. Both Wayne and Karen could vouch that the new tofu was a significant improvement on the old. It seems there are new dishes being added to their short menu by the day.

*Panang curry and mixed purple rice with sunflower seeds*

I tend to stay away from entrees when I visit Thai restaurants, often geared towards the lowest common denominator of the collective palate; the food is mostly fried, a little bland, and beige. Whilst two of the descriptors still held true for Khu Khu’s entrees, bland they were not. We ordered one of everything, with the Thai red curry corn fritters and spring rolls being my personal favourites. A big fan of Thai fish cakes, I was surprised to find Khu Khu’s version as fragrant and springy as the real thing, only without any fish in sight. The slightly firm yet spongy bite of a good fish cake is a delight, and this theme of wonderful and varied textures extended to other dishes. My hopes were lowest for the spring rolls, but my enjoyment one of the highest: a hot and crispy outer shell which, when bitten, revealed a gloriously purple coloured filling of glass noodles and gutsy purple kumara which lends an almost meaty texture to the spring roll. Manifique! You’ll have to order them to see what I mean. Least exciting were the fresh summer rolls, filled with some mint, coriander and lettucey bits and pieces but not much else.

*Panang curry (left) and Thai green curry (right)*

To follow we ordered the Thai green curry, Panang curry, mushroom nam tok and the dish synonymous with Thailand, pad thai. First to arrive were the curries, a colourful pair of green and orange curries both tasty and dynamic in their own way. You’ll be forgiven for thinking the curries seem more watery than what you’re used to ordering, but they’re this way in Thailand and the thinness of the gravy in no way reflects the fullness of flavour they offer. The green curry came with a medley of vegetables including crispy battered eggplant and kumara and a sprinkling of toasted seeds which all added various layers of interest. The Panang curry was a sight for sore eyes, with edible flowers dotted amongst the golden nuggets of crunchy lotus root and tofu ,and crinkle-cut purple kumara. A fan of fire and spice, I loved how their curries didn’t shy away from heat, but I’ll acknowledge that their grilled mushroom nam tok salad would be a little too spicy for the average New Zealander to enjoy. The brave who dare to order the nam tok will be rewarded with an intense flavour bomb of citrus, herb and umami with the pleasing grit and aroma of toasted, ground jasmine rice that litters this dish and the juicy, almost meaty bite of mushroom. Our final dish of the evening, the pad thai, turned this Thai staple on its head with multiple iterations of soy beans (in thin slices of mixed-grain tempeh and meaty cubes of tofu) and perfectly stir-fried rice noodles that tread the line between sweet and sour beautifully.

My hat goes off to Michael who has delivered to Auckland a restaurant both innovative and delicious. Khu Khu Eatery is a must-visit for vegans, non-Vegans and Thai food fans alike.

Khu Khu Eatery
171A Ponsonby Road
Ponsonby
Auckland 1011
Ph. (09) 360 1992

@khukhueatery
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