Lebanese Grocer — EAT IT AUCKLAND

*Wagyu beef shawarma and fattoush salad*

Living in Sydney last year afforded me a wealth of choice when it came to dining on Middle Eastern cuisine, more specifically Lebanese. I ate both high and low, from no-frills mom and pop places like Nada’s through to slick, modern eateries such as Nour and Nomad. I knew returning to Auckland would leave a cyprus tree-shaped hole in my heart, and stomach, until I remembered we have the utterly brilliant Lebanese Grocer on Pitt Street.

Lebanese Grocer was opened by Elie Assaf, a chef I’ve yet to find fault with in his various ventures (Williams Eatery and Milenta). It is part purveyor of groceries (of a Lebanese ilk) part kebab stop, and a coffee shop. Phew! They make their own hummus, labneh, garlic toum and babaganoush you can buy tubs of as well as fresh pita bread, a must need accompaniment. The front is a big open kitchen with a slowly revolving column of the day’s shawarma on show. The courtyard out back is delicious, well covered to protect you from the elements and one half flanked by wooden benches-cum-planter boxes. The moss green furniture conjures up images of Jardin des Tuileries giving this bonafide kebab shop a rather chic atmosphere.

The menu is small but every offering packs a punch, there are no wrong orders here. The simplest choice would be to order the haraa fries, easily the best bowl in Auckland. Crispy handcut shoestrings with the skins on, they’re dressed with smashed parsley, garlic and lemon interspersed with smoky but not particularly hot dried chillies you can nosh on like a chip. A pita is a must, a tightly wrapped cone of shawarma or grilled sojouk sausage (or falafel if you prefer) with tomatoes and pickles. They slap their thin Lebanese-style pita bread briefly against the grill before rolling, giving the shawarma a gorgeous smoky flavour that is irresistible. I love that Lebanese Grocer changes up the shawarma served every week. The first time I visited it was lamb, but this time it was wagyu beef, a first for me at least. The beef was so aromatic and particularly allspice forward with nice crispy edges. I added some of their tahini-rich hummus to it as well and the pickles add a sharp bite that balances everything well. I highly recommend you try the sojouk sausage, a spiced Armenian sausage which is sure to win everyone who tries it over. Chorizo who?

I had my eye on the snack pack next visit, that quintessential kebab shop dish of shawarma loaded fries. But this silly season I’m trying to keep some balance in my life and have always been partial to a sharp fattoush salad, so fattoush it was with wagyu beef shawarma to go on top. The salad of crisp baby cos, cucumbers, tomato and radishes is so vibrant and refreshing, laced with the perfect combination of pomegranate molasses dressing and lemony sumac. A little naughtiness is afforded by the nest of crispy fried pita bread. What makes Middle Eastern cuisine one of my most favourites is the bold flavours and balance of acidity and textures that permeates all their dishes. This fattoush salad exemplifies that.

Special mention must go to their seasonal rose and tamarillo brownie. Tamarillos have a short and fleeting season and Lebanese Grocer utilised them this year in the most fantastic way, using their sharp flesh to brighten a rich and fudgey chocolate brownie perfumed with rosewater. I am so enamoured with Lebanese Grocer that I am waiting for the day they announce they’re open for dinner as well.

Lebanese Grocer
61/65 Pitt Street,
Auckland CBD
@lebanesegrocer